There’s no denying it, oud is having *a moment.*
Whether you are a fragrance connoisseur, aroma artisan or merely love to smell nice, the luxurious notes of a good oud based fragrance is something that everyone needs in the repertoire. Rich and complex, oud perfumes speak of wealth and history, and it is certain that those around the wearer will be unable to ignore the intoxicating scent. But what is oud perfume? How is it made and what is it that makes oud so expensive? Read on to find out more.
So, exactly what is oud perfume?
Also known as agarwood, oud comes from a resinous wood that has been cultured under certain conditions. Due to its fragrant nature, it is used in perfumes, oils and incense.
There is a magic to the way that oud is created, it forms in the heartwood of the Aquilaria tree when a particular mould is introduced, either naturally by a burrowing ambrosia beetle or on purpose via an inoculation As the tree tries to protect itself from the fungus, it secretes a beautiful smelling resin as a last battle ploy, making the heartwood darken and become harder as it fills with the resin. Without the fungus, the Aquilaria heartwood is fairly neutral smelling, with a pale colouration. This wonderful smelling wood is then sold in the form of fragrant hand carvings, as raw wood or as an oil, which can be drawn from the wood using steam.
But the allure of oud comes from more than its creation, or even its unique smell for that matter. Agarwood has had cultural and religious significance for centuries, with some ancient civilisations mentioning it in use as early as 1400 BCE. For thousands of years it has been revered, prized and used to intoxicate those who come into contact with it. Layers of cultural significance from a wide array of civilisations has meant that oud perfume is evocative of wealth, luxury and Middle Eastern living. Adored in India, China and the Arab world, it has long been associated with opulence, being burned as incense in palaces, houses and religious settings, both to fill the air with rich scent, but also believed to have purifying properties for those around it. Some people even used to chew it to freshen their breath. Today, in the Middle East it is burnt in the home during special occasions, and this association with grandeur and festivities is one that lingers.
What is oudh & is it different to oud?
As with any product that can be found in numerous places and cultures across the globe, oud goes by many names. Oud, or Agarwood, is known by various names across different regions and cultures. In English, it is often referred to as Aloeswood, although this can be misleading due to its unrelatedness to the aloe vera plant. Another Western term is Eaglewood, possibly derived from the tree's distinctive shape. In Southeast Asia, the common name is Gaharu, while the terms oud or oudh are used interchangeably in the Middle East and South Asia. Kyara is the Japanese term, often reserved for high-quality agarwood. Finally, Chen Xiang is a Chinese name, particularly significant in traditional Chinese medicine. These varied names all point to the same valuable and fragrant wood.
How to wear oud perfume
The best thing about oud is that its potency matches its rich aroma. It is known in the fragrance world as one of the most potent scent notes: a little goes a long way and it has a powerful sillage, meaning it is going to last a long time, leaving an intoxicating, unforgettable scent trail wherever you go.
Oud is unmistakable and complex, with very few similar scents found in nature, yet due to the prohibitively high cost and its potency, very few perfumes use real oud in their scents, instead creating an accord of oud that is more palatable. It is in this form that many choose to make oud a part of their scent wardrobe, with oud serving as a base note, traditionally paired with rose but working equally well with other sweet, woody or oriental based notes.
What does oud smell like?
Oud oil’s rich nature comes from its complex makeup. In purely chemical terms, it is made up of no fewer than 150 chemical compounds. The exact balance of these are what give different ouds their unique properties, although all of them are identifiably oud.
While some may find oud and agarwood to be unpleasantly overwhelming, the majority find its sweet, distinct aroma to be pleasing.
In the perfume world, oud is used as a descriptive term within itself for identifying notes, but can also be described as a mix of ‘oriental woody and softly floral.
Here are some of the most common notes that oud has been described as containing:
- Woody, but distinct from sandalwood or other popular oaky notes. It is a richer, darker, older smell, evoking images of old forests and ancient trees. Some describe it as having a slightly medicinal or camphorous quality, adding another layer of complexity to the overall fragrance.
- Animalistic qualities, with an almost leather based nuance - sometimes confused with a musk.
- Syrupy sweet from the resinous nature of its origins, it can also be described as spicy with an amber-like warmth.
- Smokey is an often quoted characteristic of oud, both because of its association with incense, but also because the aging process of the wood can create a smokey, almost charred tone.
The exact smell you will get while wearing oud will depend on how it reacts with your own body chemistry, what else you may be wearing and what type of oud you have chosen. For example, Cambodian oud tends to be sweet, smooth, and less overpowering than some other types, while oud for India is typically known to be more complex and intense, with darker, heavier notes.
Why oud perfume is expensive
Agarwood is one of the most expensive woods in the world, with there being varying grades of quality available. This price is inflated further due to the relative lack of the natural resources on offer. Since 1995 the main type of Aquilaria tree has been listed as a potentially threatened species.
There are so many variations to what type of oud you will be getting that will greatly affect its price. From the location it was grown, the age and species of the tree, length of infection, even the part of the tree from which it was taken. The methodology of how it was harvested and processed matters a great deal too, and that is before you factor in if the pure agarwood has been adulterated with anything else.
Plus, the cultivation and processing itself is laborious, time consuming and requires accuracy from skilled craftsmen. A whole kilogram of agarwood will only create a yield of 1 ml resin, and in general, from a forest of specific trees, only 7 in 100 may be infected, and overall fewer than 2% of all wild agar trees will produce oud at all. All of this effort is displayed in the price. In 2015 it was claimed that the highest quality oud oil can reach £20,000 per kilogram: there is a reason why it has been called liquid gold in the past.
So why is oud perfume expensive? Because the raw materials are rare and the process of creating the oud is time and labour intensive. You will smell expensive when wearing oud, because you will essentially be wearing all of that time, effort and money that goes into its exotic creation.
Our favourite Oud Perfumes
Oud is a universally worn scent and unisex by nature. Traditionally, men would wear oud oil in place of a cologne and women would burn oud incense, allowing the smoke to scent their clothing and cling to their hair.
Nowadays, perfumers have worked wonders by creating alluring blends of oud and other notes, meaning that there’s now an oud perfume out there for everyone. Here are a few of our favourites:
Best oud perfume for women
A blast of Oud and Rose notes, the perfect flowery blend.
A citrusy, flowery oud that lasts for an insane amount of time.
https://www.fragrancehub.co.uk/products/maraaj-wooden-oud-eau-de-parfum-100ml
A spicy, pepper like oud suitable for colder months.
Best oud perfume for men
For a pure oud scent
For smelling luxurious, sweet and a little fruity at the same time.
Oud perfume is an intoxicating mix of luxury fragrance, captivating history and cultural significance. Whether you wear it as a standalone cologne or as part of a beguiling blend, you are part of a long line of wearers who have used its power to emphasise your own.
With its rarity and growing popularity, oud is only going to get more expensive, and with its timeless appeal you can be sure it will never go out of style. Secure your signature oud perfume and enjoy the captivating, complex fragrance today.